Last week, we had a good discussion about the comparative qualities of the different types of Titebond. I had mentioned that I subject my block rim octagon glue joints that are glued end grain to a significant amount of stress/trauma by putting them through the surface planer before I join them in layers. My rationale ( good at the time) for using Titebond II was that the joints withstood the trauma of the planer whereas joints glued with LMI white polyvinyl glue all previously failed.
Last night, as an experiment, I glued up octagons for a block rim with Original Titebond and let them dry overnight. Early this morning, I put them through the surface planer and the Original Titebond held like a champ. Here's a photo from this morning of an octagon exiting the planer. So consider me another convert to Original Titebond. As far as I can see, there really is no need to use Titebond II when Titebond I does the job I need it to do.